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    3rd Generation RX-7 Battery Relocation

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    j-spider

    Mensajes : 6
    Puntos : 12
    Fecha de inscripción : 03/05/2010

    3rd Generation RX-7 Battery Relocation

    Mensaje  j-spider el Jue 27 Mayo 2010 - 15:00

    3rd Generation RX-7 Battery Relocation

    Relocating the battery to one of the rear storage bins is a common modification on a 3rd generation RX-7, primarily driven by the need to free up space in the engine bay so that a large intercooler can be used. Either of the two rear bins found on an FD can be used, though the passenger bin is most commonly used because it is lockable and this location results in a slightly better weight distribution; also, unlike the driver bin, there are no fuel or brake lines under the passenger bin to worry about when drilling holes.

    Pretty much all battery relation projects involve replacing the stock battery and running a line from the new relocated battery's positive terminal to the positive line that attached to the original battery; a ground line from the relocated battery is attached to the chassis within a short distance of it. A fuse or circuit breaker is usually used on the positive line of the relocated battery, and should be as close as possible to the battery. High current capacity cables should be used for the power and ground lines. Gauge 4 cable is more than sufficent.

    On an FD, a battery relocation project typically involves attaching a positive line to the stock battery attachment point or adjacent fuse box, running the line through the firewall to the cabin, and routing it to the rear bins either under the carpet or under the center console.

    Because the storage bins on an FD are inside the cabin, a sealed battery is usually used for relocation projects. If a non sealed battery is used, it should be vented to the exterior of the car via an air line - assuming the battery has vent tubes; if not, it should not be used. The stock FD actually has a plugged 1 cm hole in the chassis just under the passenger side bin that could be used for venting purposes. A sealed battery is preferable, however.

    While FD storage bins are relatively large, only a small selection of suitably powerful batteries will fit in them. The stock battery is way too large, for example. The top opening of each storage bin is approximately 28 cm in length and is 15 cm at its widest point. However, the width tapers gradually to 5 cm or about two thirds of the way along each bin so the effective top dimensions to fit a rectangular battery are roughly 20 cm by 15 cm; the sides of the bins also gradually taper inwards towards the bottom of the bins to give a usable rectangular base width of a few centimeters less than this. Very few automobile batteries are as small as that, however. In practice, a battery with a slightly larger footprint can be used with a platform to raise it above the base. In any case, a platform should be used to hold the battery and securely attach it to the chassis.

    Some minature batteries (e.g., the Hawker Odyssey PC680) will fit nicely but none of these batteries has been shown to perform well on a street-driven FD - they tend to not be able to start the car if it remains idle for more than a few days.

    A slightly larger solution is the Westco sealed battery, which is an aftermarket replacement for the stock Miata battery. It will fit in the stock bins without cutting and is sufficently powerful for an FD. It is widely available for $100 or so. It is rated at 475 CCA and weight 25 lbs (10 lbs lighter than the stock battery), and measures 19cm long by 12.7cm wide by 18.4cm tall. The Westco battery is not a completely perfect fit, however. Because its base is larger than the base of the bin it does not slide down to the bottom of it. It sits about 1cm up from the base though it is held very snugly in place by the sides of the bin. Some people have reported happily running with the battery held in this way. In general, however, attaching a battery securely to the chassis is preferable.

    A number of larger 51R-sized sealed batteries (e.g., the Optima Red Top) are common in FD relocation projects. These batteries require a serious amount of hacking to 'fit' in the bins - the entire base of the bin will have to be cut off approximately half way down the sides.
    My Battery Relocation Project
    So, with all of the above verbiage in mind, here is the write up of my relocation project. My goals were as follows:

    * Reversibility. I wanted the installation to be reversible if necessary, so, beyond drilling a few (pluggable) access holes, I did not want to cut any stock part.
    * Streetability. While my car is not really daily driven, I wanted it to behave as though it were, so no weird-ass batterries that only hold their charge for three minutes.
    * Em, Stockability. I wanted the car to retain its stock look, so batteries hanging out in the hatch area (a fairly common solution) were out of the question.
    * Safety. I wanted the solution to be as safe as the stock system, so no suspicious wire routing or dodgy electrics. Exposed live wires or connections seem to be common in battery relocation projects.

    I also wanted to install a fuse block while installing the battery. I had plans for a number of aftermarket electrical items such as gauges, wideband oxygen sensors, a water injection system, and computer equipment so I wanted easy access to fused ignition-activated and contant-on 12 volt connections.
    Schematic
    Here is the overall schematic. One power cable from the battery is fed through a breaker to the fuse box in the engine bay. The other is fed to a 2-way fused distribution block, which is used to directly power a computer system and a fuse box. The fuse box is ignition activated.

    If you do not need ignition-activated circuits you will not need the fuse or distribution blocks.
    Battery
    For my relocation project, I decided on the Westco battery. While the larger 51R-sized batteries are more common, they require extensive bin cutting to fit. This type of savagery seems unnecessary given that the Westco battery is sufficiently powerful, cheaper, lighter, and requires no cutting beyond drilling a few access holes for wiring and mounting hardware. These holes can be replugged for a stock look if the battery is returned to the engine bay. It has a sufficiently high CCA rating for an FD with a stock sound system - YMMV, if you have an elaborate sound system.
    Circuit Breaker
    A breaker is absolutely essential in a battery relocation project. Without a breaker, any damage to the positive cable may result in huge amounts of current being dumped from the battery, which could easily cause a fire. In an accident with spilled fuel, things could get even more interesting.

    There are a variety of suitable automotive circuit breakers out there. I decided on the Stinger 150 amp breaker (#SCB150), though any equivalent circuit breaker should suffice. A rating of 150 amps or more is recommended for an FD to ensure that the starter can get sufficient current. The Stinger has the nice bonus of a cutoff switch, so the battery can be isolated in seconds when performing work on the car.

    Cable Hardware
    Power and ground cables and associated hardware can be found in any auto store. I decided to go with Stinger hardware because it looks cool and does not require any soldering or crimping. HighFiSoundConnection has pretty good prices for Stinger gear. I also bought the circuit breaker from them.

    The power cable will need to carry quite a bit of current so at least 4 gauge wire will be needed. For ease of routing, I went with 4 gauge positive cable, though I used a 0-gauge ground cable. Stinger has 4-gauge positive (#SPRO4R) and 0-gauge negative (#SPRO0B) cables that are sold by the foot. I bought 3' of negative cable and 12' of positive cable.
    Here is the Stinger 0-gauge connector (#PROBATTZPT) with the associated negative battery connector (#BTNS). I used one each these in the install. I also used four 4-gauge connectors (#MPR4S) with associated clear covers (#SPBCOV).
    Here is the stinger positive terminal (#SHT301) with two 4-gauge connection points. In this install, one 4-gauge output will go to the breaker on its way to the engine bay and the other will go to a fused 2-way distribution block. The two outputs of the distribution block will power a fuse box and a computer system.
    Stinger also make a 0-gauge ground attachment terminal (#SGT0NPT). Here is a picture of one with the M6 hardware that I used to mount it to the chassis. Because the bolts will go through the chassis, I used bonded sealing washers on the outside to prevent moisture intrusion. I could not find any metric washers, so I used #10 x 1/2" bonded sealing washers (available from Home Depot) that I tapped to M6. I used one of these terminals in the install.
    Fuse Block
    There is a variety of automotive fuse blocks available. I decided on the Cirkit #70217 fuse block (available from Summit Racing), which has seven fused remote-on connections. This block comes as a kit with two breakers, mounting hardware and terminal crimps.

    These sever circuits can be used to power accessories such as gauges, an auxiliary injection pump, a wideband sensor and so on.

    Here is the block and cover. The two red cables at the bottom right of the picture above carry power from the battery; they are attached to the positive battery terminal (through a distribution block - see below). The seven multi-coloured wires at the top of the picture carry current for the seven circuits. The pink cable on the right of the image is the remote-on wire - both relays are activated when 12 volts is applied to this line and all seven circuits become live. This line is normally attched to the car's ignition-on line. The purple 3 amp switch in the picture is for the two relays; the other seven fuses are for the individual lines. These are normal automotive fuses so individual fuses can be replaced with fuses of a lower rating if required.

    There is also an equivalently-sized Cirkit fuse block (#70107) that has four remote-on and three constant-on connections that can be used if you have items that need to be powered when the ignition is off.

    Grounding Circuits from the Fuse Block
    The seven circuits from the fuse block could be grounded through the car's common ground system. However, since the FD is known to have a noisy common ground, I decided to run a ground wire from the block for each line. This solution also ensures cleaner accessory wiring.

    I took seven wires of the same size as the seven Cirkit fuse block wires, cut each of them to the same length as the wires, and then stripped about 2 cm of wire covering from the end of each of the seven wires and twisted the wires into a single end point.
    I then crimped one end of the wires with a 10 AWG circular terminal crimp (which came with the Cirkit kit) and wrapped the end in electrical tape.
    And attached it to the block ground ground point. Here is a picture of a test fitting to the block.

    The ground point on the terminal block can then be attached to the negative terminal of the battery cable thus ensuring that the seven circuits have a clean ground.

    Fuse Block Platform
    The Cirkit fuse block is weather-proofed so could be installed in the engine bay. However, I wanted to put it as close as possible to the battery - with a fuse between it and the battery - which basically meant putting it in the bin with the battery.

    The block comes with mounting hardware so could, for example, be attached to the bin walls. For a slightly cleaner solution - and to avoid drilling a dozen or two holes in the bin walls - I decided to fabricate a platform for the block. This platform will sit in the bin next to the battery.

    I fabricated this platform from some plastic blocks I had lying around. I painted each component of the block matte black for a stock look.

    First, I cut a mounting platform to fit into the bin to the right of the battery. I pre-tapped it with mounting holes for block.

    I then made two supports for the platform. These supports will be attached to the sides of the bin. The platform sits on these supports and is attached via Velcro strips. I used Velcro instead of permanently attaching the platform so that I can easily remove the block if necesssary.

    I also attached adhesive-backed furniture protectant strips to the sides of the platform to reduce the chance of noise due to rubbing.

    And here is the fuse block attached to the top of the platform. The ground for seven circuits are attached together to the fuse block grounding point. The single black wire on the bottom left will go the the battery ground, which will serve as the common ground for the block.
    Battery Platform
    I also fabricated a platform for the battery. This platform has four legs to attach it securely to the chassis and a tie-down component to hold the battery in place. I made this platform from two plastic sections and 1/4" aluminum tubing (available at Home Depot). I used a die to create M6 threads on the tie down arms and then used M6 lock nuts to hold a metal cross member that I made from some scrap metal.

    I should probably have used steel instead of aluminum for the tie-down arms because it is much stronger. I intend to replace it.
    Here is a picture of the platform. I used adhesive-backed furniture protectant on the top of the platform to reduce the chance of noise due to rubbing.
    Here it is with the Westco battery mounted.
    Ground Attachment
    The battery ground needs to be attached to the chassis as close as possible to the negative terminal.

    Conveniently, there is already a hole is the sound deadening material underneath the passenger bin which will serve to locate the attachment point. I sanded the grounding point, driled two M6 holes in the chassis, and mounted the terminal using two M6 bolts and two locknuts and lock washers. The 0-gauge negative cable can then be attached to this terminal and routed to the battery in the bin.
    Here is a picture of the underside of the car showing the bolt heads and sealing washers.
    Positive Cable Routing
    I ran the positive cable from the fuse box next to the stock battery, then through an existing hole in the wheelwell to the driver footwell, and along the center console back the the passenger bin.

    An alternative is to run the cable to the starter instead of attaching to the fuse box. Slightly less wire will be required if this approach is adopted. However, there is already a pre-existing cable route to the fuse box so the advantage would be minimal.
    Here is the stock fusebox that sits next to the battery. It has a grey metal bracket that attaches to the positive terminal of the battery. This bracket can be removed by unbolting the large copper coloured connector and sliding the bracket out.
    Here is a picture of the bracket after removal. I drilled an M4 hole in the bottom left of this bracket to mount a positive connector and cut the top arm off the bracket because it will no longer be needed.
    I then slid the bracket back into place, reattached the old cable, and used a flat head M4 bolt and an M4 locknut to mount a positive connector to the bracket. I used a flat head bolt because a normal bolt would not provide enough clearance to reinstall the fusebox cover.
    Here is a picture with it attached to the fusebox.
    I then ran this wire along the fusebox harness to the hole in the driver's side of the engine bay next to the ignitors.
    This hole leads to the driver-side wheelwell and is used to route some stock wiring from the engine bay. The wheelwell contains an unused hole leading to the driver footwell that is sealed with a large plug. The center section can be cut out of this hole and it can then serve as a grommet to run wiring to the interior of the car. Here it is used to route the 4-gauge positive cable.
    This hole enters the driver footwell behind the fusebox. Here the cable is routed to the door sill. 4-gauge cable can be routed nicely along the existing sill wire guide.
    I ran the cable along the door sill and back to the bins.
    Remote-on Wire
    The remote-on wire activates the two relays and the associated seven circuits in the fuse box when 12 volts are applied to it.
    I attached a t-tap to the ON wire on the ignition harness. This wire is black with a white stripe and is live when the ignition is in the ON position.
    I then attached the remote-on wire. It is not pictured here, but this wire should be fused as close as possible to its attachment point.
    Bin Access Holes
    A total of seven access holes are required to mount all of the hardware in the passenger bin: four for the battery platform legs, one for the ground cable, one for the positive cable, and one for the seven circuits and the remote-one wire.
    Here is a picture of the four battery platform holes from under the bin. I used 1 1/2" rubber grommets (available from Home Depot) to provide a finished appearance and to protect the wires.
    Here is a picture showing all seven holes from the top. The hole on the left rear side of the bin is for the ground cable, which runs under the bin to the ground attachment point. The left front side hole is for the positive cable, which runs to the engine bay. Finally, the right front hole on the side of the bin is for the fuse box circuits and remote-one wire, which run to the front of the car.
    Final Install
    Here is the 2-way distribution block mounted (#SHD842). It receives power directly from the battery and has two MIDI-fused outputs. One of its outputs powers the computer system and the other powers the fuse block.

    I attached a large adhesive-backed furniture protectant pad to the front bin wall to stop the battery rubbing off the walls.

    Here is the power harness for the computer system. The red wire is the constant-on power line and is attached to one output of the 2-way fused distribution block. The white wire is an ignition-activated wire attached to one of the fuse block circuits. This wire will drive a timed circuit on the computer that will deactivate the computer some period of time after the car is switched off. The black wire is ground. The connectors are GM Weatherpack.
    Here is a picture with the fuse block and platform installed, together with the positive battery terminal and 4-gauge lines.

    The fuse box sits on its platform and its seven circuits and remote-on wire are passed through the hole next to it. The two red wires shown go through the 2-way distribution block to the battery positive terminal. The ground wire for the block will be attached to the battery negative terminal.

    One 4-gauge output of the terminal goes to the 2-way distribution block and the other goes to the breaker on the other side of the bin.

    The braided cable is the computer power harness on its way to the driver bin. The ground wire from the fuse block can also be seed running alongside it on its way to the negative battery terminal.

    Here are four of the seven circuits from the fuse block routed along the center console. They are easily accessible by removing the center console cover.

    I ran one of the remaining circuits to the rear hatch area, where it will power an auxiliary injection pump, and two to the passenger door sill area, where they will power a gauge system and wideband sensor in the passenger wheelwell area. (The other wires in this picture are part of a computer system install.)

    The pink remote-on wire is also routed along the center console. Fortunately, the wire that comes with the Cirkit kit is long and nicely reaches the ignition harness.

    I terminated all of the seven circuits with GM Weatherpack connectors.

    The circuit breaker is mounted to the bin walls on the opposite side and a positive cable routed through the adjacent hole. When the battery is installed, a positive cable will run from the battery positive terminal to the other breaker connector. It should be noted that this breaker is mounted upside down here for space and cable routing reasons. The cutoff and reset switches are also easily accessible in this position.

    The braided cable exiting the bin at the positive cable exit point is the harness for the computer in the driver bin.

    Top view before platform install. The gound cable entering on the top right will be attached to the negative terminal of the battery.
    I tapped four 3 cm deep M6 holes in the battery platform legs and drilled M6 holes in the chassis to attach M6 bolts to the legs. Only three areas are suitable for drilling given the positioning of the legs so one of the platform legs in not attached to the chassis. As with the ground terminal, I used bonded sealing washers on the bolts as a moisture seal.
    Here is view with the battery platform installed.
    As is clear in this picture, space is pretty tight in the bins. The only satisfactory positioning of components I could arrive at involved installing the battery with the terminals at the rear. In this position, the positive terminal is not next to the breaker so a positive cable must be routed under the battery to the breaker on the opposite side of the bin.

    The two red power wires to the fuse block are attached to the positive battery terminal through the 2-way fused distribution block. The black ground wire from the fuse block must be also routed under the battery to the the negative terminal on opposite side of the bin. Both Stinger terminals have dedicated attachement points for these wires and use screws to attach them so they can be removed easily if required.

    Here is the other side of the bin showing the ground cable entering the bin next to the battery negative terminal. The thin black wire attached to this terminal is from the fuse block ground. The positive cable from the battery positive terminal is attached to the lower connector in the breaker (not visible here).

    The top positive conector on the breaker has an exposed metal area so I used black paint-on electrical tape to cover it. This breaker does have an associated protective cover but there is no room for it in this configuration.

    Here is a top view of the final installation. I painted the hold down bar flat red for some added bling.

    Parts List
    Here is a list of the major parts used in the install. I bought most of the Stinger components from HiFiSoundConnection. The battery is available from many online sources. Nearly all of the Stinger components can be replaced with much cheaper generic equivalents.

    * 1 Westco Miata battery
    * 1 Cirkit 7 circuit ignition-activated fuse block (#70217)
    * 1 Stinger 150 amp circuit breaker (#SCB150)
    * 1 Stinger positive battery terminal connector (#SHT301)
    * 1 Stinger 2-way MIDI distribution block (#SHD842)
    * 13' Stinger 4-gauge positive cable (#SPR04R)
    * 3' Stinger 0-gauge nevative cable (#SPR00B)
    * 1 Stinger 0-gauge negative battery terminal connector (#BTNS)
    * 1 Stinger 0-gauge connector (#PROBATTZPT)
    * 4 Stinger 4-gauge connector (#MPR4S)
    * 4 Stinger connector cover (#SPBCOV)
    * 1 Stinger 0-gauge ground attachment terminal (#SGT0NPT)


    aqui esta el link que no pude adjuntar la images en el mismo orden



    http://www.stanford.edu/~sunid/battery/

    PSIQUIATRA DE ROTORES

    Mensajes : 5
    Puntos : 7
    Fecha de inscripción : 09/05/2010

    Re: 3rd Generation RX-7 Battery Relocation

    Mensaje  PSIQUIATRA DE ROTORES el Vie 11 Jun 2010 - 22:26

    me llegas jorgito,estas haciendo la tarea aigo asi es la cosa tirese al agua y asi conoce mas si navecita cuando queras copia de la caja para la batt llamame y a las ordenes........suerte viejito

      Fecha y hora actual: Sáb 25 Feb 2017 - 17:41